Pansit batil patung: tasty, sumptuous and filling

I was in the NORTH. Up at the coasts of Cagayan and the Ilocos Norte provinces when I was again invited to be part of Lakbay Norte’s 2011 edition, Leg 2, visiting several new and interesting spots as well as reacquainted with some old sites.

I stared hungrily at the pansit batil patung noodle dish served before me. It was piping hot and the layers upon layers of sahog (ingredients) were just making my mouth water. The dish includes crushed chicharon (pork rind cracklings), ground carabeef, slivers of pork liver, mung bean sprouts (togue), scallions, and julienned carrots and cabbage on a bed of handmade fresh miki noodles. A beaten egg, cooking from the heat, topping it all. Making matters unbearable was just the sumptuous aroma filling the small eatery. But I was in pansit batil patung heaven and was ready with fork in hand for my meal.

Noodle dishes are quite common in the country. While it has become generic in most places, there are a handful of towns and cities that have their own take of the humble fare, making it their own identity. The northern city of Tuguegarao in Cagayan province is not only famous for the adventure, natural and heritage destinations including colonial era churches that tourists and travellers come for. A first-time visitor immediately feels their curiosity spike when they see almost every eatery — from hole-in-the-wall spots to carinderias and restaurants — offering pansit batil patung (or patong). The Michelin Guide even selected Chie Chie’s Batil Patung in Makati in its Philipine inaugural guide.

Pansit batil patung what?

The ubiquitous fare is basically a noodle dish with a mix of ingredients. Vegetables are first sauteed and seasoned then transferred into a dish or container. The meat follows and cooked in water until tender. Fresh miki then replaces the meat. Beat in the egg, then stir and season the mixture.

After a minute or two, the cook ladles out a portion of the soup and lets the rest simmer again. Once the broth reduces, the noodles are ready and the cook serves them on a plate. The cook adds the meat and stir-fried vegetables as garnish. They whisk the fresh egg (batil), usually leave it half cooked, and place it on top (patung).

There can be variations of this cooking style and ingredients can vary with slivers of hotdog or lechon added. In most cases, it is egg, sunny side up, placed on top before serving. Once on the table, a cup of the soup and the pamasingo, a shallow container with freshly chopped onions, toyo, vinegar and kalamansi juice completes the ensemble.

It depends on the person, either one can drink the soup or pour it on the pansit batil patung and just consume with gusto.

The dish is filling enough and is already a meal in itself. There are many eateries around the city with almost everyone having his favourite noodle place. Popular ones are Gretchens, Paul Louis, Long Life, Joemar’s, Amigo’s  and Nangs.

Pansit batil patung can cost from P30 to P80 depending on the place, size and number of ingredients included. One should never leave Tuguegarao City without savouring this popular and delicious fare.