Davao

Around the town of Caraga

A magnificent view of the coast of Caraga from a high promontory.

Other than the Spanish era stone church and Pusan Point, there is not much left to do in the town of Caraga. But on a clear and calm morning, at a promontory just near the church, this beautiful view of the coast and villages is just breathtaking. The sea is clean. Fishermen are coming back to land with their catch and a few waves slowly approaching the coastline draws a moving white line.

There are lodging houses here but the ones found at the town center are sometimes not available. It is better to use the government owned guest house but if you’re all alone, the place looks scary. But it is cheap. The caretaker offered it to me (no receipts) for just P250 for a night in a big room with toilet and bath. As for food, there are several eateries or carinderias around. If you’re not particularly sure of the suitability of the meal, buy canned food and have it cooked.

At the Philippines’ eastern edge, Pusan Point

Caraga is not only famous for its century old, Spanish colonial era church but also, by reason of geography, its claim to be the easternmost point in the country which is punctuated by Pusan Point. This landmark is accessed in the town of Santiago but is still a few kilometers from town over rolling hills, coconut groves and small fields. One should ride a 4×4 vehicle but the best way to enjoy the trail is to hire a habalhabal, from the town or in Caraga but the latter entails a lot of expense as it’s quite distant.

The old church of Caraga

The quaint colonial era church of Caraga

The old town of Caraga is famed for its treasure: one of a few remaining Spanish colonial era churches in Mindanao. The 19th century church (not 16th or 17th century as some websites say) in the Parish of San Salvador located at the poblacion (town center) is just a small and simple structure founded by the Jesuits especially under Fr. Pablo Pastells, SJ. It is made of coral and limestone blocks/rocks placed on top of each other.

The interior has been renovated already but the narra hardwood used as posts are still there and exposed. I’m not sure if the altar is still original but seems like it. The baptistry, found at the right side near the entrance, also has another large, probably antique, marble basin.

It is interesting to note that the upper part is made of wood, just like the other churches in Mindanao like Jasaan and the ruined Balingasag churches in Misamis Oriental. The reason might be to make it earthquake proof.

The inscription found at the top of the portal.

Want to go slow to Caraga? Think again!

The slow road to Caraga. If you want that, ride on a provincial jeepney. What usually takes 3 hours by van or four by bus can be an exasperating 6 hours by jeep. If you are short on patience, then forget about it. There are just too many stops, too many waits, too many bad roads coupled with a heavy downpour.

After leaving the jeep terminal, you would think that you are already on your way. But it detours to the market where it will stay for an hour to wait and haul the produce that a passenger will be buying. Then a trip to the gasoline station where several containers numbering around 10 will be filled with fuel for a good 30 minutes. Then off you go to another waiting area, another 1 hour before finally, you are on the highway up north.

However, after a few kilometers, a passenger alights. Then another few kilometers and a passenger rides. Produce has to be delivered and loaded. The vehicle breaks down and then repaired. Then at a terminal in one of the municipalities, the jeep stops for merienda until there just comes a point wherein you’re silently cursing on why, in the first place you rode this jeepney. But all you can do is sit it out, bear it and make the most of it.

Now, will you still opt to go slow to Caraga? Think again!

Nothing to do in Mati? Go for a swim!

Mati, being the capital of Davao Oriental is the main economic hub of this southeastern province. I know this place as more of a transit point for trips going up to the coastal municipalities than as a tourist destination. Being stuck and with nothing much to do here, what better way to kill time and enjoy than to go for a swim?

Located a few kilometers south is Masao Beach with floating kiosks. The water is clean and shallow, white sand bottom and with patches of sea grass. Its far from the main road and will guarantee a quite time. You can either bring your food or have it cooked.

The lonely road to Gov. Generoso

On an ordinary day, the highway leading to the municipality of Gov. Generoso in the middle of the western side of the long and narrow peninsula of Davao Oriental is lonely. Except perhaps for the occasional bus or private vehicle traveling to Mati, the province’s capital or to Tagum in Davao del Norte. Sometimes, a habalhabal, a motorized public transport, passes filled with passengers. And on other times, local people going about their way walking on foot along the roadsides.

Fishermen going about their business casting their nets or cruising at sea provides a welcome respite to the roadside scenery monotony. Just a few minutes after the sun has set behind Samal Is. and stopping at an elevated area with a clearing overlooking the sea, you can find folks wading in the still and shallow waters. At the background, the lofty mountains of Compostela Valley loom.

Gov. Generoso is a small sleepy town. Lazy afternoons are spent at the coast. Atop docked boats, these two women are busy preening.