batac_empanada_2

Savoring Batac empanada

Cross section of Batac empanada. The crispy thin shell is filled with bean sprouts, longanisa and egg.

Food place where one can have the empanada. It's clean and well maintained. CLICK TO ENLARGE

Batac’s empanada is said to be the best produced in Ilocos. Crispy thin shell filled with longanisa, bean sprouts and egg, its a delicious treat that can be a meal in itself.

It’s quite a while since I’ve eaten empanada from Ilocos, perhaps, a few years ago during a photo assignment for a book project in Laoag. But whenever I’m here, its de rigeur for me to have my fill at one of the eateries, including eating grilled longanisa.

In Batac, home of the revered former dictator, Ferdinand Marcos where his remains are displayed, head on to the airy, well maintained building at the far end, right, of the Catholic Church where a series of food stalls are put up.

Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon for seven days starting in Cagayan province all the way to Pampanga to sample the various local cuisines and experience the attractions offered by the various provinces along the route. Now, Batac empanada differs from that of Vigan in terms of the color and thickness according to this post. For the original, one should eat at Glory’s Empanada, said to have started the business and included her favorite color, orange, in the flour based shell by using achuete.

One has always options when ordering and the price starts at P35. Should it be special? Super/extra special? ordinary? Or even customize how the filling should be, depending on what one likes. In my case, I always opt for the special.

Filling: Cooked bean sprouts. CLICK TO ENLARGE

Filling: native longanisa & eggs. CLICK TO ENLARGE

At the open air cook area, the ingredients are laid out around the frying pan, neatly prepared in several containers: pre-cooked mung bean sprouts or in some stalls, grated green papaya; several pieces of longanisa; egg on trays and in one area, the flour based shell is prepared.

Rolling out the colored dough that will become the empanada's shell. CLICK TO ENLARGE

The filling laid out, it is ready to be sealed and fried. CLICK TO ENLARGE

In Frank Cimatu’s blog post, the word empanada is derived from Spanish meaning to wrap and coat in bread and you can see it prepared right before you. Frying only takes a few minutes, just enough to cook the shell.

The empanada is best eaten while still hot. Pair with sukang iloko, native vinegar, and it can be a gustatory experience.

Miki at the other side of the street. While it looked good, it was just too salty for my taste. According to a companion, there was just lots of MSG in it.

Chicharon bits and green onions atop the miki. CLICK TO ENLARGE

Having our fill of the empanada, we transferred to the food stalls across the streets where noodles, like mami and miki can be ordered. While I’m much more familiar with the former, noodles with clear broth as it is found all over and is also served in fast food joints, I was more inclined to taste the latter which is not so common in Metro Manila.

On the hot bowl: noodles in a heavy, yellow orange soup, hard boiled egg (optional), some sliced green onions and chicharon (pork rind) bits. Looks delectable but as soon as I tasted it, no good. It was just too salty for my taste. Lots of MSG, a companion said that I wasn’t able to finish it. Not even halfway. The egg was half eaten too. Maybe the cook got sleepy or we just ate at the wrong food stall.

Estan Cabigas is freelance photographer, blogger and writer based in Makati City, the Philippines. A true blue Cebuano, he makes stunning images and meaningful photo stories. His work has been published in local and international publications including National Geographic Magazine, Geo (Germany), Sunday Times Magazine (London) and other publications. He is also a peripatetic traveler and has traveled to all 81 Philippines provinces. I'm open for work, collaborations and inquiries, including hotel, restaurant and site features and reviews.

9 Comments

  1. Tom
    May 3, 2010 @ 10:28

    I am an adult in the U.S. who is taking a college course on the Philippines. I am trying to learn more about the Philippines including its culture, food, and interesting places to visit. Anything you could tell me would be very much appreciated. Thanks!

  2. archiedelara
    May 8, 2010 @ 22:42

    Mouthwatering foods…

  3. katt
    July 3, 2010 @ 5:00

    i’m proud to be from batac and i miss empanada like hell. you can try better miki from other fast foods. i guess the best miki is from ordonia’s but i don’t know if it still exists.

  4. Thinking of travel? Do the Lakbay Norte loop | langyaw
    September 2, 2010 @ 12:34

    […] that it has to offer of which, two stood out for this trip: the timeless and always satiating Batac emapanada that is bound to make the visitor not just eat one, but two or more. And of course, a bit of a […]

  5. Jane Tumaneng
    September 21, 2010 @ 12:34

    We just keep trying all the different varieties of empanada and also trying to make good ones ourselves. What is good about Batac is that thing crispy shell and we prefer these to Vigan ones, thanks for the tips it was good info to use in our own quest for the perfect empanada. Your term gustatory experience was perfect description

  6. » Disappointed with Vigan’s okoy | Langyaw: Sojourns and Off-the-Beaten Path Travels
    June 11, 2011 @ 10:43

    […] Batac is known as having the best,  Vigan differs from the other two by offering another native fare, […]

  7. Batac’s miki | Langyaw Travel Photography
    November 15, 2011 @ 14:56

    […] about the empanada and miki stalls in Batac. Share […]

  8. The legendary Batac Empanada « CHILITREK
    January 6, 2012 @ 18:42

    […] entry by blogger Biagkensiak which includes a video of an empanada being made. Renowned blogger Langyaw also has a good post on the subject. The verdict? Yes, the humble Batac empanada is well worth […]

  9. The legendary Batac Empanada « CHILITREK
    January 6, 2012 @ 18:48

    […] entry by blogger Biagkensiak which includes a video of an empanada being made. Renowned blogger Langyaw also has a good post on the subject. The verdict? Yes, the humble Batac empanada is well worth […]

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