Scary transit to Agutaya
The pumpboat that took me from Cuyo to Agutaya island.
Cuyo is in blue In October of 2006, I visited the remote islands of Cuyo and Culion in Palawan for a photography assignment and passed Negros and Iloilo in transit. This is my account of that journey.
This is the 9th of a series What a weird name! was my reaction the first time I heard about Agutaya Is. from my Palawan based company mates way back a few years ago. They were in-charge of the relay station/cellsite located in this very remote area. “With the strong waves and wind, I was just scared that water might come in and submerge it!”When I learned that there was another fortress church in this island, I immediately decided to travel there since I still have a few more days in Cuyo before my departure for Coron. Good thing that there was a pump boat that will be leaving for the island in the afternoon that I made arrangements to ride them.
It was already 3 o’clock that the boat departed for the three hour trip to Agutaya. The weather was good, sunny blue skies and the waters peaceful. An hour after the trip, the seas started to get rough as we approached open water. Scenes of islands and azure waters were quite stunning but unfortunately, as the waves and wind were rather strong and sprays of water entered, I placed my camera inside my bag and then wrapped it in plastic so that it won’t get wet. Waves continued to get stronger that the trip was kind of nauseating as I continued to get wet from the watersprays.
Six o’clock came and I can already see the trace of Agutaya from a distance. From a distance? By that time we were supposed to have been at the shores of the town but there we were, still at sea. I soon learned that because of the waves, the trip was extended and we will be arriving probably past 6:30 pm or even 7! Six thirty came and went. By that time, it was already dark outside. The island is now a silhouette and lamps from the few houses at the shore were lighted. Feeling hungry, I was munching on some biscuits that I brought with me.
The small banca that I took to shore.
It was already a few minutes past 7 PM when we were already in the vicinity of the shore of the town. A sigh of relief at last until I was told that since it’s low tide already, the boat can’t dock. What! I was just so tired and hungry and a bit wet and the boat can’t dock? The wind was strong as the boat rocked from side to side and there I was sitting at the center of a wooden plank that was my seat for the past four hours. A few minutes later, I was informed that they are arranging a banca to fetch me and bring me to shore.
Thirty minutes past and a small banca finally came, surprising me with its size. When I was finally seated, I noticed that the line of the water and the rim of the small vessel was just a few inches off. With the strong waves and wind, I was just scared that water might come in and submerge it! Though the shore was near, it was still a good distance and the surroundings dark. No strong lights but a few fluorescent lamps’ glow from the few houses beyond the shore. As we navigated slowly, I was just praying that nothing untoward will happen.
Fortunately enough, we came safely to shore. So much relieved I was that after around five minutes and before leaving, I opened my bag, took my camera and got a shot of the small banca (above).
Agutaya "hotel"
This trip was just full of surprises. When I saw this kubo (hut) and was told that this will be where I will spend the night, I was just amused but held out laughing out loud as the owner was just beside me! P30! That’s less than a dollar per night and you’ve got this airy hut! Hahahaha!
"Hotel" quarters
Electricity is not 24 hours in Agutaya. That’s why, after being told that power will be cut off in a while, I ordered meals, took a bath from a deep water well under the pale yellow light of an incandescent lamp and fixed my things. Above, woven mat placed atop the narrow bed made from split bamboo. A single hard pillow and a small blanket completes my bed.
What's dinner?
A plateful of rice and canned luncheon meat cooked with scrambled eggs and a glass of water completes my meal. No fork here. I was just so hungry that I consumed all. Call me a clean plate hero! Also found atop the table, my beloved SE K700i and a pack of wet tissues.
Where's the lion? - tiger katol: patay ang lamok
The simple can be a surprise, the challenges an experience.And the last surprise before calling it a night, Tiger - Katol, anti mosquito coils. What happened to the lion? Hehehehe… When I was a child, we used to burn these to ward off mosquitos before sleeping. The brand name was Lion Tiger Katol with the same color, design and motif as the one above but with a photo of a lion and tiger facing each other, growling inside the white ellipse at front. It just made me smile.
Looking back, this trip was quite scary especially the banca ride. For a few minutes, I have never been so fearful in my life! But then, overcoming it and encountering these surprises, just made it a great day. That’s the beauty of travel especially in places way out into the boondocks. The simple can be a surprise, the challenges an experience.
![Alamy](<a href="http://www.alamy.com/stock-photography/4F1C9933-45B9-4D58-899E-97A4300FCCB1/Stanley+Cabigas.html" ><img src="http://www.alamy.com/images/Logos/alamy-LM-25.gif" alt="Stock photography by Stanley+Cabigas at Alamy" title="Stock photography by Estan Cabigas at Alamy" border="0"></a>){kind=link}
Hey Estan,
Were you able to shoot the fortress church in Agutaya?
Your travel blog about Cuyo made me want to explore the island so longingly. Sana December na, that’s when I plan to travel.
If you can share contact numbers/email addresses of the banca/pension/inn/accommodation owners whom you made business with, please do. Thank you in advance.
Be safe always.
Cheers,
Tonie
nyaha! kuyawa gud. pero its part of the adventure. boring if walay abnormalities sa trip. haha.
kyut hotel. naay pakapin katol. hehe. our house was once like that. i missed it.
Tonie, I definitely have photos of the three fortress churches in Cuyo, Agutaya and Culion. These are upcoming posts in this series. However, before that, I will make an introductory post regarding 18-19 century defenses against the Muslim slave raiders to put it into perspective which I’m still putting up and researching.
Regarding the pension house I stayed at in Cuyo, I’m not sure if this is still their number but just try:
Nikki’s Pension 09187944163/09189079276
Even if there are power outages in the island, as long as the pension house have guests, they put on their generator. From there, you can ask for rates and contacts. They have a festival but check it out when as this place is really way off the beaten path and you can’t expect anything that you might usually find in more developed areas.
bai, you’re right, an adventure is nothing special if no out of the ordinary happens. It makes the trip more fun and meaningful.
Bitaw, hayahay ang “hotel.” Very airy
wow! what an experience? looking at the small fishing boat, i won’t even dare to ride that. but if i’m in your case, i’ll definitely do the same.
the cuyo area is an open sea area making it more dangerous to cross its islands.
at least memorable yang byaheng yan.
Hey Estan, I like the first photo:) It’s very clear and sharp. While I was at wp-pinoy, I stumbled on your blog so I checked it out. You mentioned Negros in your introduction so I proceeded to read the entire thing because my mom’s from that province and it holds a special place in my heart. It’s a very interesting entry:)
hehehe, what a nice, airy hotel. at paborito ko pa yung ulam mo
actually, nakakatawa kasi yung camping areas dito sa alemanya e mas sosyal pa kesa dyan sa ‘hotel’ mo… pero am sure it’s a great adventure. yun na nga lang, ayoko sumakay ng ganyan kaliit na banca tapos ganon kalayo ang biyahe, takot ako 
welcome sa WPP
I was also looking for a photo of the fortress church. he he.
I admire people who can go on this kind of adventure. I can only ride a bangka that small if Im sure Im still above water should it flip over… and the electricity shortage is really something that would make me think twice. hehe
Scared of moo moo.
More travel stories please.
the trouble in batad and now this one. whew… i can’t wait to travel more. traveling indeed is exciting.
dong ho, tama ka jan, this incident reminded me of Homonhon wherein I crossed open water going back to Guiuan on a small motorized banca too. Its already facing the Pacific Ocean and the waves are really scary.
antonette, thanx for the visit. Negros is another place that I need to reacquaint again since its been quite a while since I’ve spent longer than a day or two.
kengkay, thanx also for the visit. napansin ko sa blog mo sosyal pala kayo mag camping! kulang na lang may portalet
carlo, it doesn’t hurt to try this things once in a while. it provides for a rich experience and a good blog post.
oman, hahaha, yan talaga basta magbiyahe. pero dami ko pang experiences gaya ng sa Marinduque wherein I was interrogated by the military since they suspected me to be an NPA!
by the way, guys, oman was referring to my batad incident.
naku bai, buti di ka naano. but makes for one heck of an interesting story. your cuyo posts make me want to explore those parts given a chance.
Now this is a trip worth remembering! Hahaha.
Buti na lang you arrived there safe. Talagang off the beaten track. Sana makapunta rin dyan oe of these days.
thats my place…
Salamat sa article about Agutaya!
It’s not a good time to travel to Agutaya from July to February. Believe me, the waves you’ve encountered are small compared to what we usually experience in December… bigger than what you can imagine, and considering the size of the outrigger boats plying there. Try to visist between March to June to have a much less scary experience. I can’t guarantee that the sea will always be calm during those periods, but the probability of having a more safe trip is higher.
Liezeil, thank you for this information. But experiencing these kind of waves might also be a good adventure!
Of course, hurdling those turbulent waves also tests ones strength, character and faith… Anyway, I’m saddened that you had to stay overnight in a very modest airy hut in Agutaya. There are actually no hotels, pension houses or anything of that sort because strangers rarely visit our place. But a lot of homes do accept strangers to stay for a night or even up to a week for free, that is… if you’ve made prior arrangements or if you arrive on a daytime. In my case, we have been accustomed to accommodating strangers in our home as I was growing up. But then, your trip would have been a little less adventurous without your “hotel” experience.
Og, Ferdz, the Cuyo is one of the remote areas in the country. But its beauty and pristine condition is one thing. No wonder Amanpulo is in one of the islands.
Liezeil, wow, now that I’ve known about the accommodation that could be had in Agutaya, I would avail of it whenever I can come back. The “hotel hut” is indeed a nice touch. It brought me back down to the simpler things in life. And really, the whole experience, even brief was enjoyable!
Well, that’s a travel tip which you can probably consider in your future island escapades… find a foster home! The people in these islands are usually trusting and trustworthy as well, so no need to worry. You can’t avoid stares though because the people would notice a stranger easily as everybody in the place knows everyone.
Send me an email if you want to avail of free accommodation in Agutaya should you wish to visit its shores again.
Liezeil, thanx for this. I will do email you once I will visit again
Hi liezel,
I’m planning to go to Agutaya because I heared that my grand mother was from this Island… How can I contact you so that I can ask some inform on how to get on your Island…
Thanks
Hi Richard,
Please email me at l_zabanal@yahoo.com.ph, so I can give you details on how to reach Agutaya. It’s great to know that you are trying to trace your roots. I will be very glad to assist you. People in this island municipality knows almost everyone, so I suppose I know your grandmother ’s relatives.
Liezeil
good luck richard.
does seem like quite a small banca. :O but the place where you stayed seemed pretty cool.
kouji, its breezy, cheap and cozy
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