The aroma of Cebu lechon filled the air as smoke curled up to the roof of Leslie’s Lechon backyard roastery in Talisay City. Two pigs turned slowly over glowing embers, their skin glistening from the heat. Sitting on a low stool, Rose Enjambre-Inoc, 55 years old, expertly rotated the bamboo poles—left, then right. She has done this for more than forty years, her hands steady and sure.
Rose began her journey under Nanay Sana, the pioneer of Talisay’s lechon industry. Today, she works with her daughter-in-law, Leslie, continuing a family legacy that helped make Talisay the heart of Cebu’s most loved dish.
Cebu Lechon and the Pride of Talisay
Many places claim to have the best roasted pig, but Cebu lechon from Talisay stands apart. The crispy yet succulent skin and the tender, flavorful meat have made it famous across the country. Some lechon even travels straight from the spit to Metro Manila in a few hours, ready for a feast.
The city’s lechon story began in the 1940s with Susana “Nanay Sana” Enjambre, who started selling roasted pigs at Maroca, a well-known swimming pool. Her skill and passion inspired generations of roasters who turned Talisay into Cebu’s lechon capital.
Simple Ingredients, Perfect Flavor
“Ang maayo pang lechon ay ang native nga baboy gyud,” Leslie shares with pride. She sources native pigs from southern Negros Oriental, known for their firm and flavorful meat. During December, the busiest month, they roast up to eighty pigs a day using motorized spits to keep up with orders.
Preparation remains simple. “Simple ra man ang pag-andam sa baboy,” Rose explains. After cleaning the pig, she fills the cavity with salt, garlic, and sangke (star anise). “Don’t put too much salt,” she advises. “The strong saltiness can overpower the taste.” Once they sew the belly shut, they brush the pig with soy sauce before placing it over the coals.
Q&A: Cebu Lechon
Q: What makes Cebu lechon different from other roasted pigs?
A: Cebu lechon is famous for its rich flavor and crispy skin. The pig is seasoned only with garlic, salt, and native herbs, then slowly roasted over charcoal. There’s no sauce needed, just smoky, savory perfection that defines Cebu’s culinary pride.
Q: Where can I find the best Cebu lechon in Talisay?
A: Talisay City has long been known as the home of Cebu lechon. Families like Leslie’s continue the tradition started by Nanay Sana in the 1940s. You can visit their roasting areas on weekends or place orders for gatherings and special occasions.
Q: How long does it take to roast a Cebu lechon?
A: For a medium-sized pig, around 15 kilos, it usually takes about one and a half hours. The roaster keeps turning the spit to cook the meat evenly and achieve that perfect balance of tender meat and crispy skin.
Q: What ingredients are used to season Cebu lechon?
A: The recipe is simple and traditional—just salt, garlic, and sangke (star anise). These are stuffed inside the cavity before roasting, creating the signature aroma and flavor that Cebu lechon is known for.
Q: Can Cebu lechon be brought to other cities or abroad?
A: Yes. Many lechon makers in Talisay and Cebu City pack their roasted pigs for travel. Some are sent to Manila for celebrations, while others are vacuum-packed for export, allowing anyone to enjoy Cebu lechon wherever they are.
The Tradition Continues
For a 15-kilo pig, roasting takes about an hour and a half. The skin turns deep red and fragrant, a sign that it’s almost ready. Rose inspects every inch, smiling as she declares, “Luto na!” It’s done. Soon, they will pack the lechon and send it off—perhaps to a family celebration or to the city’s busy markets.
From the humble beginnings of Nanay Sana, Cebu lechon from Talisay has grown into a proud family tradition. It’s more than just food. It’s a story of skill, patience, and heritage—flavors that connect generations and remind us that true craftsmanship still lives by the fire.
