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Iloilo

A short detour in Negros


    A typical jeepney in Bacolod City

    The Cuyo Loop In October of 2006, I visited the remote islands of Cuyo and Culion in Palawan for a photography assignment and passed Negros and Iloilo in transit. This is my account of that journey.

    2nd post of a series The reason I made a detour in Negros was to check out the Masskara. Of course, I was able to get an access pass so that I can enter the dance grounds as well as see it for myself. It was really fun, very colorful but after a few hours, the constant loop of one music used by the performers was just driving me crazy! I was able to take around 4 gigabytes of photos in RAW but unfortunately, a few days later, a technical glitch I made with my Epson P-2000 erased it totally! Unrecoverable! Darn! It was one of my major blunders as a photographer. But fortunately, it was not an assignment. Anyway, I still was able to save some of what I have.


    A fisherman trawling the shore in Valladolid, Negros Occidental.

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    The Cuyo Loop

      For many years, I have set my eyes on the remote island of Cuyo, borne out of curiosity and fascination to this sprinkling of terra firma, located at the northern edge of the Sulu Sea basin between north Palawan in the east and Panay in the west. When the book project Philippine Church Facades by Pedro Galende, OSA, materialized, the fortress churches of Cuyo and Culion were included in the list to be photographed and so, I requested and got the assignment to travel to these places.

      Impressive: Cabatuan and Sta. Barbara churches


        The impressive Cabatuan Church

        theLOOP north negros route This is the 13th installment of the Luzon – Visayas – Luzon Loop series. Click the image on the right to check out the rest of the posts.

        In the Visayas, Iloilo is one of the provinces with many colonial era churches. What better way to spend a few hours before my trip to Kalibo that afternoon than with visiting two of these?

        The first time I saw a photo of the church of Cabatuan and I was immediately drawn to it. Its impressive and imposing. An architectural achievement. Its squat but massive twin belfries flanks a simple facade built along neo-classic lines. Finished in 1866, it is one of the biggest churches in Panay.

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        Deco’s Special Batchoy with prewar pandesal*


          A delectable batchoy noodle dish.

          theLOOP north negros route This is the 12th installment of the Luzon – Visayas – Luzon Loop series. Click the image on the right to check out the rest of the posts.

          “Its sahog… are plentiful and its broth very delectable.” This is the best batchoy I have ever tasted! I silently exclaimed mindful of the other customers in the airconditioned branch of Deco’s in La Paz, Iloilo. It must be the hunger and weariness of lugging my things while walking a good distance in downtown Iloilo City. Bernie, who met me at the pier took me here when I said that I want to have a good batchoy in La Paz. Its sahog of entrails, chicharon and scallions are plentiful and its broth very delectable.

          There is a small debate, I was told, about the first batchoy in La Paz, Iloilo. There are two contenders: Ted’s and Deco. Both started out as a small eatery in the 30’s. However, Bernie said that the latter is the original. Ted’s has been transformed into a franchise that can now be found in major malls in the country. As for Deco’s, the rights and recipe were bought and developed by Edgar Sia II, the successful young businessman who also owns the Mang Inasal franchise.

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          Ruing on my supposed Negros/Iloilo sojourn, 4

            iloilo-5.jpg

            map_iloilo_negros.gif Iloilo is a beauty that beckons. I have long read and heard of its rich history, culture, food, people and many wonderful things that it has to offer. Unfortunately, in my lifetime, I have only stepped on its hallowed ground thrice: a half day’s trip from Bacolod just to gaze at the marvel that is the fortress church of Miag-ao and to eat the much touted La Paz batchoy in the La Paz district of the city; a brief stop in transit to Bacolod and, again, in transit from Bacolod but this time, spent a night before boarding a boat bound for Cuyo, Palawan.

            What a loss. If only I have more time to kill in my hands and I would want to soak in its built religious wonders with its multitude coral and brick Spanish era churches and cemeteries; fill my tummy with Ilongo cuisine sampling the much written and praised gustatory delights ranging from fresh oysters offered at seaside diners along the highway going west of the city, angel wings shellfish, a Thai food from a known Thai restaurant turo-turo style, and various homegrown dishes in restaurants that are sprouting in the city.

            If only my trip pushed through and I would’ve done all this and more.

            Above, the neogothic style church of Molo known for its architecture and the all female statues of saints in its interior. Talk about female power!

            Read More »Ruing on my supposed Negros/Iloilo sojourn, 4