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Madness at the Nazarene feast in Quiapo, Manila

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    The carroza bearing a replica of the 17th century image of the Black Nazarene which was brought from Mexico in 1607.

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    Time ticked to 1400H and the crowd, filling all available spaces in Plaza Miranda in Quiapo, Manila, are already roused. Men are already standing while some are warning others who were wearing shoes to stay away or for women to go to the sides. Whistles are blown, the announcer at the stage is crying out instructions but already drowned out by the crowds’ chants of “lubid, lubid, lubid” (“rope, rope, rope”) and “viva, viva, viva.”

    Suddenly, the gates of the church are flung wide open and the pair of abaca ropes stretches out to the sea of people where it is grabbed by the devotees. The small carroza bearing the 17th century image of the Black Nazarene starts its crawl as the devotees pull. Firecrackers erupt and smoke spreads, smelling of pulbura (gunpowder). Towels and handkerchiefs are thrown to the image while men atop the carroza wipes the statue and throws it back. Some men and women are ready to give an arm or a leg in order to jostle, climb up and touch the Christ.

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    Pre Ati-atihan revelry in Kalibo

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      Aklanons partying
      nightly on the streets around the plaza.

      theLOOP map_kalibo.gif Aklanons surely know how to party! And they do it nightly around the streets bounding this Visayan capital’s plaza fronting the church in the run up to the festivities of the Ati-atihan that is celebrated every third Sunday of January. And yes, I was witness to this enjoyable and exuberant revelry as I made a mad dash from Cebu to Makati via Mindoro while finding time to spend a night in Kalibo, Aklan*.

      The plaza is all teeming with people from all walks of life: sitting on the grass covered portions, at the main stage, filling the benches and steps near the monuments or occupying the tables neatly laid out at one corner where people can have barbecue and a round of beer at the same time listen to a band playing. From here they spill to the street gawking or, better yet, join in the impromptu street dancing.

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