High seated, the pedicab driver called on passengers unloading from a bus at the San Carlos City terminal in Negros Occidental, motioning them to come near him. Some just walked past but I approached and after telling the driver to take me to the pier, I was off in a jiffy.

Finally arriving in San Carlos City, I was just too tired and accepting of my fate spending the night here. Two hours and a half hours ago, the last ferry bound for Cebu left and during that time, I was still tracing the meandering mountain highway in Don Salvador Benedicto.

The Murcia – Don Salvador Benedicto road is my highway of dreams. It’s one of the best highway experience that I’ve had in the country that kilometer after kilometer, I can’t just help but be in awe at the natural scenery unfolding before me. Stunning mountain ranges, cool weather and the scent of pine trees make this a trip to remember.

It is not only old churches that I am fascinated with but I find Spanish colonial era cemeteries, and to some extent, those during pre-war period with their wonderful architecture very interesting. When I get to places, after asking about the churches, I follow it up with: “Is the cemetery here old?”

In the Visayas, and possibly in the entire country, Iloilo has the best samples of colonial era, as well as pre-war cemeteries.

No doubt about it, I’m a sucker for old churches. That’s why when I travel, the first place that I go to see is the church, especially if it is colonial era. Not to pray, but to admire these architectural wonders as well as to take photos or do some documentation. I always find time to make my own visita iglesia.

For religious heritage lovers, Iloilo and Negros are must go to places in the Visayas.

While wandering around Valladolid in Negros Occidental, a stone’s throw away from the colonial era church, I chanced upon two men in their backyard holding their fighting cocks readying these for a short game to test their birds’ ferociousness. Well, it was just a fun sport and I think with my camera on-hand, they were more than happy to “show off”.

Cockfighting is an age old pastime in the country that was very popular even during the Spanish colonial period.

The reason I made a detour in Negros was to check out the Masskara. Of course, I was able to get an access pass so that I can enter the dance grounds as well as see it for myself. It was really fun, very colorful but after a few hours, the constant loop of one music used by the performers was just driving me crazy! I was able to take around 4 gigabytes of photos in RAW but unfortunately, a few days later, a technical glitch I made with my Epson P-2000 erased it totally!

For many years, I have set my eyes on the remote island of Cuyo, borne out of curiosity and fascination to this sprinkling of terra firma, located at the northern edge of the Sulu Sea basin between north Palawan in the east and Panay in the west. When the book project Philippine Church Facades by Pedro Galende, OSA, materialized, the fortress churches of Cuyo and Culion were included in the list to be photographed and so, I requested and got the assignment to travel to these places.

Believe it or not, with only few hours in Bacolod, I opted to visit Henry Sy’s new pilgrimage center, SM City Bacolod, instead. Yeah, I passed by San Sebastian Cathedral, that beautiful old colonial era edifice but didn’t bring with me my camera. Not that I’m a big fan of malls, where I just find the offerings generic and nothing special, I was more intrigued by its architecture. From the shoe box style of which these brand of malls started with, it has been liberated and updated with light, airy and spacious designs.

Four hours across the north Negros highway and I was reliving memories of more than a decade ago passing this very artery going back and forth Cebu and Bacolod during vacations at my best friends place. I can vividly remember the ancestral houses of Silay with its imposing 1930s church along the road. Or how I am always captivated with the massive Mt. Mandalagan, a pemament fixture in the Negros landscape, lording it over the land.

After three weeks vacation at my home province in Cebu, I was again on the road for the trip back to Makati. I’ve been looking forward to make this trip not only because I will finally be able to visit the provinces beyond Iloilo as well as pass by Mindoro but also to come back, albeit briefly, San Carlos City in Negros.

While I have been to this island sporadically, it is still not enough to familiarize me with the many wonderful things that the province has to offer. Below are additional photos from La Carlota and Villadolid, Negros Occidental. These are towns south of Bacolod.

Negros to a non local conjures images of Masskara, extensive sugarcane fields, old rich sugar barons with their haciendas and elegant turn of the century homes. Malnourished children during the height of the devastating economic situation in the 80s when world prices of sugar plunged or the ever suffering and long exploited plantation workers, the sacadas and many others.

If all things went as planned, I would’ve touched down in Dumaguete last Thursday to spend two days there and visit Dauis, Zamboanguita, Bacong, Amlan and Manjuyod for those old colonial era churches as well as have a taste of budbod kabog (steamed sweetened millet wrapped in banana leaves) that can often be found in the southern city.