Some notes on the hotels I stayed when I was in Antique and Iloilo

January is festival month in the islands of Cebu and Panay and, unfortunately, for the third Sunday of the month, one has to choose: Sinulog in Cebu or Ati-atihan in Kalibo.

Necropolis, city of the dead. Cemeteries can be found in every town and city in the Philippines but there are just some places of repose that are above the rest. In terms of architecture and significance, these four, as listed here, are must sees.

Credit it to forgetfulness, nay, time chasing, that a meal of 70 pesos ($1.50) almost left me broke in Iloilo City as I was en route to Cebu via Bacolod City. Good thing, technology and the internet coupled with the wonders of Western Union played important roles and saved the day. So to speak.

This leg of the trip cost me much time that later affected my plans of reaching Cebu on the night of the second day. Just imagine, four hours of waiting for the bus to finally go, as promised by the driver but then, even promises are made to be broken.

It is not only old churches that I am fascinated with but I find Spanish colonial era cemeteries, and to some extent, those during pre-war period with their wonderful architecture very interesting. When I get to places, after asking about the churches, I follow it up with: “Is the cemetery here old?”

In the Visayas, and possibly in the entire country, Iloilo has the best samples of colonial era, as well as pre-war cemeteries.

No doubt about it, I’m a sucker for old churches. That’s why when I travel, the first place that I go to see is the church, especially if it is colonial era. Not to pray, but to admire these architectural wonders as well as to take photos or do some documentation. I always find time to make my own visita iglesia.

For religious heritage lovers, Iloilo and Negros are must go to places in the Visayas.

The reason I made a detour in Negros was to check out the Masskara. Of course, I was able to get an access pass so that I can enter the dance grounds as well as see it for myself. It was really fun, very colorful but after a few hours, the constant loop of one music used by the performers was just driving me crazy! I was able to take around 4 gigabytes of photos in RAW but unfortunately, a few days later, a technical glitch I made with my Epson P-2000 erased it totally!

For many years, I have set my eyes on the remote island of Cuyo, borne out of curiosity and fascination to this sprinkling of terra firma, located at the northern edge of the Sulu Sea basin between north Palawan in the east and Panay in the west. When the book project Philippine Church Facades by Pedro Galende, OSA, materialized, the fortress churches of Cuyo and Culion were included in the list to be photographed and so, I requested and got the assignment to travel to these places.

In the Visayas, Iloilo is one of the provinces with many colonial era churches. What better way to spend a few hours before my trip to Kalibo that afternoon than with visiting two of these?

The first time I saw a photo of the church of Cabatuan and I was immediately drawn to it. Its impressive and imposing. An architectural achievement. Its squat but massive twin belfries flanks a simple facade built along neo-classic lines. Finished in 1866, it is one of the biggest churches in Panay.

This is the best batchoy I have ever tasted! I silently exclaimed mindful of the other customers in the airconditioned branch of Deco’s in La Paz, Iloilo. It must be the hunger and weariness of lugging my things while walking a good distance in downtown Iloilo City. Bernie, who met me at the pier took me here when I said that I want to have a good batchoy in La Paz. Its sahog of entrails, chicharon and scallions are plentiful and its broth very delectable.

Iloilo is a beauty that beckons. I have long read and heard of its rich history, culture, food, people and many wonderful things that it has to offer. Unfortunately, in my lifetime, I have only stepped on its hallowed ground thrice: a half day’s trip from Bacolod just to gaze at the marvel that is the fortress church of Miag-ao and to eat the much touted La Paz batchoy in the La Paz district of the city.