A 'bahay na bato' house in Vigan City

Calesa style benches along Calle Crisologo

The heat in Manila is taking its toll on my sanity. Humid and coupled with occasional bursts of rain just exacerbates the heat. I’m feeling depressed that the itch to travel is growing more and more. Ah, travel. How I want to feel the wind on my face, visit new places or old reliable ones. Bath in a pristine lagoon or just cozy up in hotels in slough.

Vigan City would be a good place to visit again, for the nth time. It’s grand old bahay-na-bato houses exudes history. It’s old cathedral, with resplendent altars and beautiful carvings reminds one of its rich past.

I remember, a couple of years ago, I specifically filed for a leave from work to celebrate my birthday and I was then enroute to this beautiful place. It was only at 2 AM the following day that I arrived, tired and hungry. A few years later, I was blowing another candle on top of a small chocolate cake with my amour beside me in one of the hotels there with a four poster bed.

Simbaan-a-bassit, a cemetery chapel in Vigan

Though small, I like visiting the quaint simbaan-a-bassit, literally small church, which is actually a cemetery chapel. It’s beautiful espadana makes it unique and the small image of the Santo Intierro inside is being venerated. I like watching its curves and white-washed walls with decorative volutes at the sides.

Calle Crisologo? While it is one tourist trap with the many souvenir stalls lining this cobbled but short street, it still doesn’t fail to amaze. Grand and elegantly standing at both sides of the streets are several old houses. Large wooden doors framed by thick stone frames while wooden calesa style benches make for a good rest.

At the burnayan, traditional clay pottery in the city

The burnayan, clay pottery industry in Vigan City is quite known. And if you’re lucky, you might even catch Mr. Fidel Antiporda Go, declared National Folk Artist for his contribution to the burnay craft and preservation as he tells you the nitty gritty of pottery making and firing.

I’ve been to Vigan City many times. But then, there’s always something to find interesting in this old but beautiful place. With the heat and humidity in Manila, I might as well just go back there soon.

A beautiful natural rock arch at the eastern side of Boracay

Gaping maw, close up of a cave at the water's edge

I woke as early as a quarter to five o’clock, A.M. as we were to meet at exactly five infront of Boracay Mandarin hotel. With three others from Iloilo media and two from Smart, our host, we walked to Station 1 where we will board the pumpboat.

The sun hasn’t broken out yet from the horizon but the sky is turning pink, men were cleaning the sand and a few people were running at the shoreline.

The engine roared, the pumpboat moved forward, past the sands of Stations 1-3, passing the low structures as well as the anchored yachts and boats near Asya resort in Station 3. Suddenly, the scene, from white sandy beach gave way to a rocky shoreline to cliff faces. I was amazed.

Turle with a monkey's head? An interesting rock formationl northeastern side

We rounded off the southern part of the island. There were low but still interesting rock formations. Buildings of Boracay’s jetty came into view. At that early time, there were already boats bringing visitors to and from the island. As the sun has already risen from the horizon, beautiful yellow rays emanated, a golden sunrise.

Rocky face with a small cavity. Can it be a shallow cave? CLICK TO ENLARGE

Our two young boatmen were quite calm whereas me and my companions were quite scared. I said to myself, nothing to be alarmed at, really. I’ve been to this before, in Palaui and Babuyan Channel and much stronger.

Despite the waves, there were fishermen with their small bancas just going about their fishing. The flatness of Bulabog Beach gave way to a rugged hill, then a cliff, then that natural arch.

Looks like a giant eye

Our boatman navigating the shallows after our Puka Beach stopover. CLICK TO ENLARGE

Rounding off the northwestern side, just after Puka Beach were a series of rocky cliffs but this time, lower than the other side. Slowly, the hotels and other structures of development in Boracay came into view. After a few minutes, we were back again in Station 1 where we alighted.

Hiring a pumpboat to go around Boracay or even island hopping is a good activity as it gives you an opportunity to see a different facet of the island, its wild, rugged and raw side. Far from the maddening crowds, far from the many structures. Doing this, you’ll come to appreciate this island better.

Thanx to Smart for the media tour. There are several pumpboats available for rent. You can arrange it with your hotel/resort or ask around at the white beach in Stations 1-3. As for our rental, our host was able to get it for a discounted rate of just P2,500.

Beautiful Bagsang Falls in Gonzaga, Cagayan

Cool waters in a forested setting

Indigenous Agta children making Sitio Bagsang home

Just less than a kilometer from the Agta (original inhabitants of northern Luzon, they are also called Ati, Aeta, Dumagat in other provinces where they are present) village, its a pleasant walk to the edge of farmlands where the forest line ends and just tracing a few trail including a short descent. The farmlands are extensive and at high noon, can be very hot. Good thing that when we entered the forest, it was all cool filled with birdsong and damselflies darting along the way.

Part of the river system of Bagsang Falls

Vegetation and footpath going to the waterfall. CLICK TO ENLARGE

There are vines hanging, tall trees, interesting flora and flowers as well as a beautiful stream set against a verdant backdrop. But the waterfalls is just beautiful. Short and because it is more like a huge rock projecting out, one can even sit behind the cascade, a rare thing in most waterfall and the pool is just thigh deep. Perfect for children. The water is also good as a hydro massage.

Our gratitute to Tita Marissa, energetic and fun to be with tourism officer of Gonzaga, Cagayan for assisting us during our exploration of the municipality.

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Mabnang Falls in Claveria, Cagayan

Do you want to visit the waterfall? Elizer Simon, Claveria tourism officer asked us. But we were already in Claveria late in the afternoon and I wasn’t sure if we can still make it. Don’t worry, its just near. He reassured us.

Thus we headed our way to Barangay Mabnang, just a couple of kilometers from Claveria’s towncenter and which is near the border with Sta. Praxedes, both are northern municipalities of Cagayan province with the latter, the last town before Ilocos. These are closer to Laoag City than the capital, Tuguegarao City.

I was back again in this municipality after just four days from shooting the Kapuso Mo, Jessica Soho travel feature. This time with Eric, my travel buddy. I was more interested to visit again Taggat Lagoon but Elizer’s invitation was just to hard too resist.

When we arrived at a little clearing midway up in the hill with beautiful anahaw palms, we started our hike.

Lower cascade of Mabnang Falls which is more angled

Mabnang Falls with Eric to provide scale.

I have a thing for waterfalls because of their many forms, volume and height as well as location. But what I don’t like is that reaching one, most of the time entails a steep descent like Tappiyah Falls in Batad, Fedilisan in Sagada, Merloquet in Situbo, Zamboanga City, to cite a few.

But when we reached the falls, I was surprised that it was really accessible. Just about a hundred meters from where we started walking with no steep ascent or descent. Just a gradual and easy slope to contend with.

But then, Mabnang Falls is small. It is just around 40 feet but it is said that there is a taller cascade above it but kind of inaccessible as the route was damaged during the logging years. A few meters from where the waterfall is another cascade, this time at an angle, almost the same length but lesser volume.

Pool before Mabnang Falls has an outstanding view of the mountains. It is found at the clearing almost a hundred meters from the actual cascade.

While the waterfall is beautiful, barangay plans are not. Already, they have cemented the sides and ground to make a pool directly where the water will fall. And this makes it disappointing. When we were there, they have already made progress.

Back to where we started hiking, the barangay is making a pool with water coming from Mabnang Falls. And god, the view is just so spectacular. Elevated and on top of a hill, it gives a good view of the farmland directly opposite the main highway with forested mountains and  the wide open blue sky above. I think, this will also be a good alternative or enjoy after swimming at the waterfall.

My great appreciation for Mr. Elizer Simon, Claveria tourism officer who assisted us when we were there.

Aquamarine waters off Puka Beach, Boracay Island

Not as superfine as those in Stations 1, 2 and 3, but still great

What a great way to enjoy my holiday in Boracay. Just imagine, a beach in Boracay without the hotels and establishments, without the people and touts, without advertising and other clutter. Instead, you have the sand, the pristine water and trees all to yourself!

Aquamarine water with a lone defoliated branch at the beach. The motorized banca swaying to the waves while anchored to the shore. Blue skies, and the sound of insects and birds in the forest. And I was, WOW! This is my kind of beach!

Sand, sea and banca

Puka shells made into a necklace

But that is its charm. It may not be as perfect as what we know of the world famous Boracay but the absence of commerce, tourists and establishments was just paradise for me.

Where’s the puka shells? You might ask. Don’t bother looking. It might be like looking for the proverbial needle in the haystack. The locals have meticulously combed out the shoreline that its almost impossible to find one. If you’re interested with it, visit the souvenir shops.

Puka Beach is accessible via land, either with private vehicles or hire a tricycle to the place. I’m not sure how much it costs since we went to the place via a hired motorized banca as part of a Boracay boat tour. There are several operators offering such tours. Just contact your hotel’s front desk or ask around.

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White sand, pristine waters of Buluan Island

Mindanao, the Philippines’s second largest island has a veil of mystery draped around her. Feared by the uninformed but loved by those who know her true worth and beauty. This series is my tribute for Mindanao, where I’ve been crisscrossing over the years and where a part of me also comes from. Buluan Island, a gem of a piece of land off Barangay Buluan in Zamboanga Sibugay’s municipal capital of Ipil is beautiful. And that is even an understatement. Spending time in this island is like having holidays to gran Canaria but way simpler.

The island is tear drop shaped as seen from above with a tadpole like profile. The apex fringed with a white sandy beach and gradually rising up to the top of the hill. On a beautiful morning, its ghost like when seen from Ipil’s port, about 20 minutes by speedboat.

Tadpole like profile, Buluan as seen from Ipil's port early in the morning

Coconut trees and a man

Trees clinging on rocks

Just imagine, the water is so pristine that one can still see one’s feet below, like looking through clear glass. If you hold still, small fishes will just come near and even nibble on your skin!

Boating around the island, several small silver fish by the hundred, which the locals call lupoy, often break the surface and leap a few centimeters. With the sun still near the horizon, these fishes occasionally flash!

Fresh fish offered by a fisherman

Grilled fish fresh from the sea

After having eaten, I again took to the water and just enjoyed the sea.

Pristine water at the western side

Buluan Island is just two kilometers from Barangay Buluan, Ipil, Zamboanga Sibugay and 20 minutes by speedboat from the port of Ipil. To visit, coordinate first with the local tourism office located at the Provincial Capitol in Ipil.

My gratitude to Ms. Eda Daarol, OIC, Provincial Tourism Office, Ipil, Zamboanga Sibugay.

The infamous box car that transported prisoners of war during World War II

Boxcars, wall of valor, war memorials, Bataan Death March markers. These are just some of the reminders of the horrors of war, man’s cruelty to his fellow men and the Philippines wasn’t spared. After World War II, Manila was the second most destroyed city in the world. It’s just six feet long, eight feet wide and six feet tall but as much as 50 to 60 men were crammed inside the wooden boxcar with steel roofing. The only opening? a slit on the door. This is the Bataan Death March boxcar that transported those who survived the 105 kilometer walk from San Fernando rail station to the former Camp O’Donnel, now the Capas National Shrine.

A bigger version and made of steel was 33 feet long, seven feet high and eight feet wide was crammed with 150-160 men. So tightly crammed and loaded with just the slit as the ventilation, coupled with the April sun, these boxcars became ovens and many died standing. Those with diseases, like dysentery, made it a moving box with the floor full of excrement, vomit and urine.

From one of the testimonials put in placed by the Defenders of Bataan and corregidor, Inc. beside the boxcar:

In a matter of minutes, we were suffocating for lack of air. We were being cooked alive in a 110 degree oven; we sweated, sizzled, urinated, defecated. I could hear some screaming; when I looked back, I saw a few who were fainting but had not an inch to fall on… I do not know how many of my comrades died in that car, there must have been at least 10. As the line of cars pulled in and doors opened (in Capas), I could see many, many more bodies laid out on the ground beside the tracks.”

- Corban K. Alabado, Bataan Death March, Capas, San Francisco: Sulu Books, 1995, pp. 63-64, 3Lt., 31st Division (USAFFE)

In Capas National Shrine, this lone boxcar is a memorial to the horrors that these men, both Filipinos and Americans suffered at the hands of the Japanese.

At the Capas National Shrine in Capas, Tarlac

Boxcars, wall of valor, war memorials, Bataan Death March markers. These are just some of the reminders of the horrors of war, man’s cruelty to his fellow men and the Philippines wasn’t spared. After World War II, Manila was the second most destroyed city in the world. Araw ng Kagitingan, Day of Valor. It is celebrated every 9 April in the Philippines. Being a holiday, many look forward to going on extended vacation or just stay at home.

But then, Araw ng Kagitingan is not just another holiday. It is a day to commemorate our brave heroes who sacrificed their lives, the ultimate human expression. In the Philippines, war memorials have been erected to remind the living of those who offered there lives during the most cruel of historical atrocities, World War II.

And this will be my way of paying homage to these men and women who are now remembered, their names emblazoned on stone and to the countless masses who are still nameless and unaccounted for.

Surfer riding the waves of La Union

La Union
It’s time to get a break from the wintry winds, take a dip in the warm waters and ride the waves off La Union where sun, surf and sand are available year round.

Ever since the Japanese Aki Naga started the surfing trend in 1981, Urbiztondo Beach in San Juan, La Union has been a surfer’s mecca for the past three decades. Of course, there are comparable, and perhaps better surfing spots around the country, but nothing beats this province in terms of accessibility from Metro Manila which is only about 5 – 6.5 hours by private vehicle or bus respectively. It is just two hours away from Baguio City and is just 30 minutes ride from San Fernando, the capital.

Surfers lining up at the beach

There are actually two surfing seasons: July – October and November – March, which is a rarity in the country but a blessing in La Union. The waves here are considered standard, meaning good and are known for the consistent quality. With a sandy bottom, wave length on a good day at 50-150m and swell size starts working at less than 1m, this is perfect for beginners.

Luke Landrigan, a local surf celebrity who has won in international surfing cups, and his team at San Juan Surf Resort (+63 72 720 0340, www.sanjuansurfresort.com.ph, landrigan@sflu.com) offers surfing clinics complete with board rentals and accommodations. Even an hour of instructions is enough to set you riding the waves!

The best time to go to the water is early morning until 10 AM and around 2 PM to late afternoon. Other than surfing, there is beach volleyball, kayaking and a fantastic nightlife. During peak season, the beach can get crowded and, especially on October, the La Union Surfing Break is a big event with an all night party of fun and camaraderie as well as great surfing during the day.

Beyond surfing in La Union, there is another wild adventure up north, in the Ilocos, that is sure to feed adrenaline junkies and offer an exhilarating and one of a kind experience.

4x4 adventure fun in the sand dunes of Ilocos Norte

Ilocos Norte

The unexpected landscape especially at dusk is simply breathtaking. It makes one marvel at the eons and ages that had gone by for such geography to form.  The spectacular view seems to stretch endlessly far into the horizon.

The Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes is a unique phenomenon in a tropical Philippines. This extensive coastal stretch of sand and beach, all 52 square miles, was declared as a National Geological Monument in 1993. It starts from the municipality of Currimao, winds its way to La Paz, Laoag City, then to Suba, Paoay and ends in the town of Pasuquin. The longest uninterrupted stretch is found in Suba and it is in this part where an exciting adventure begins.

Ivan enjoying sand boarding

Sandboarding and 4×4

Sandboarding is a fairly new sport that has gained following in many parts of the world where extensive sandy environments like deserts and sand dunes are ever present. It is similar to snowboarding but done, well, on sand.

In Ilocos Norte, it is offered by the Laoag Eco-Adventure Development (LEAD) Movement (+63 919 873 5516), who conducted test runs in August 2009 using handcrafted boards. It is now a full fledged adventure activity in the area.

Covering the extensive sand dunes can take hours of hiking but there is another, more fun, alternative. LEAD and the Paoay Off Roaders and Adventure Group (+63 917 5230331, gds41@yahoo.com) offer 4×4 vehicles within the area.

Their skilful drivers can maneuver in steep ascents and inclines giving one a different kind of high. For both adventures, it is better to start in early morning, as it can get extremely hot as the day unravels.

Laoag Cathedral

Other attractions

Beyond the Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes, there are various attractions and other activities to pre-occupy a visitor. Close by or roughly within a kilometre from Suba is beautiful Paoay Lake that offers kayaking activities, for now, and plans are afoot to introduce fun boarding during the southwestern monsoon months or habagat.

Ilocos Norte also has beautiful Spanish-era colonial structures such as old houses, fortifications and churches retaining much of the medieval architecture of the Spanish times.  A good number of these structures are still standing and can be found in the various municipalities of the province.

The most impressive is the St. Augustine Church in Paoay, which is one of four, included in the UNESCO World Heritage List under the Baroque Churches of the Philippines category.

Saramsam Cafe's Dinuguan pizza

Ilocano food fare

A trip to Ilocos Norte is not complete without a sampling of its well-known native cuisine. La Preciosa Restaurant (+63 77 773 1162) on Rizal St., Laoag City, is the best stop for traditional Ilocano cooking. A 1950’s residential house converted into a restaurant, it exudes warmth and assures visitors of familiar home cooked meals.

Want Ilocano fusion cooking? Saramsam Cafe (+63 917 570 2110 www.balaydablas.com/saramsam.html) also on Rizal, St., in Laoag City offers avant-garde versions of Ilocano food. From their “poque poque” pizza and “dinuguan empanada”, it is tradition with a unique twist.

Of all the empanada-producing areas in the Ilocos Region, which includes Laoag and Vigan, the one in Batac City, birthplace of former President Ferdinand Marcos, is considered the best of the three.

Visit Glomy’s Empanada (+63 77 792 2356) located near the Batac church. Of course, the Ilocano version of the “longanisa” (native sausage) is still one of the best with its spicy, garlicky taste, and is perfect for breakfast even if cooked literally over hot coals.

Mira de Polaris

Balay da Blas

Accommodations

Ilocos Norte has several hotel accommodations ranging from the budget to luxury. Mira de Polaris (+63 917 501 1567 www.miradepolaris.com) in San Nicolas town, is mid priced and is a good base to stay while in the province. It’s new and each room has free Wifi Internet. They offer several suites good for the family.

Another option is Balay da Blas (+63 917 570 2110 www.balaydablas.com/) with its beautiful and well decorated apartelle type suites complete with receiving area, a dining room and kitchen. They just built a new extension that offers single rooms in contemporary design.

Originally published in the Filipino-Canadian magazine, Living Today.

Old Higaonon tribeswoman in full regalia. Headband and earings are beautiful beadworks

One thing that really captured my attention during Bukidnon’s Kaamulan Festival were the native handicrafts that the tribespeople were wearing: Beads, bags and even brass belts and bells.

Mindanao, the Philippines’s second largest island has a veil of mystery draped around her. Feared by the uninformed but loved by those who know her true worth and beauty. This series is my tribute for Mindanao, where I’ve been crisscrossing over the years and where a part of me also comes from.

These come in different colors and different patterns. The beads were worn in different parts of the body but primarily as headwear, earings or necklaces for the women while the men decorate their native caps with beadwork.

In one of the tribes represented in the Kaamulan Festival, the Manobo-Tigwahanon, I noticed that one man with shaggy and long hair was wearing a brass belt with circular bells hanging from chains (below). The bells and chains make noises whenever the man moved or danced. At his side is a small knife sheathed with meticulously woven abaca.

Native brass belt with bells

Native bag made from beads

Still another, a bag was worn by another man with really interesting beadwork and patterns. Different colors: red, white, blue, yellow, orange and green. The patterns are X’s, diamonds and rectangles.

There were other interesting trinkets like headgear for the men with sequines, brass rings and anklets for the men, shell bracelets for the women. Really, very interesting body decor.

These handicrafts weren’t only limited to one tribe. It’s not even exclusive to Bukidnon’s seven tribes but is also present in many indigenous peoples groups in Mindanao, across the Philippines and Asia.

It’s a shared artwork that only varies in patterns and colors depending on the tribe. Truly, interaction, trade and shared cultures has made this almost universal.

I’m very much grateful to Bonzenti and Earl for accommodating me in Malaybalay, Bukidnon.

Ang Langyaw’s trip made possible by Airphilexpress, the fastest growing budget airline in the Philippines!