Macaque monkeys waiting for us at Bongao Peak, Tawitawi

I’m in Bongao, the provincial capital of Tawitawi at the far southwestern end of the Philippines near Borneo. Yes, I’m traveling and this is my third day of a 13 day trip around both ends, west and east of Mindanao. It’s good to be back, as actually, I’ve been here before, but it was almost a decade ago.

How was my travel for the past three days? It was great! Zamboanga was a bit chaotic but the short trip around the old quarter was a lesson in history. The following day, I flew with a friend to Tawitawi and for the past thirty eight hours, I’ve tasted sati, climbed Bongao Peak for the second time and just went to the beach after.

Davao will be next, starting tomorrow and after a few days, will be back in Maitum to explore a waterfall. After that place, I’m still thinking of probably going to Maragusan Valley, or visit Lolong, the biggest crocodile in captivity. But that can change though depending on circumstances.

Do wish me luck!

The early evening train from Naga in Bicol to Manila

Upper and lower bunk

The tickets we got were discounted at just P695 and there were not much passengers as it was already at the close of October and most people were traveling in the opposite direction, to the provinces.

Ah, trains. My first encounter with trains was with the mass light rail transit in Manila and its counterparts in EDSA and Aurora Boulevard (LRT2). Fast, tolerable noise and dependable.

My first actual train though was the KCR in Hong Kong and my first PNR train ride was a something that I can’t forget during afternoon rush hour. And now this, a long journey that will take us 10 hours and I was beaming.

Last coach with reclining seats

Lavatory

And I was sort of dreaming, idyllic, makes one think of being in some movie like Wong Kar Wai’s 2046, or taking steam train holidays where sceneries unfold as the train passes by. And then the whistles sounded, and the train started to move.

Narrow path and window

Waiting lounge at Naga City station

Taking time to go to the comfort rooms located at the end of each coach is somewhat of a struggle too due to the strong movement. But after sometime, you just get used to it that you are eventually lulled to sleep.

So, should you ride the Bicol Express?
You should! Either just for the experience or, if you don’t mind the shakiness of the vehicle as it runs on the tracks. Its also an alternative to taking the plane or bus. There are a few stops along the way too if your destination is other than Naga. Just check the PNR station to check the specific stations.

Inside, the bunks are comfortable but bare. There are no pillows and blankets provided with the lamps working either a hit or a miss, or you have to wait for a few minutes before it lights. There’s no canteen but instant coffee, junk food, mineral water and cup noodles are sold in one of the bunks.

When your nearing your destination, the conductor will wake you up. By the way, its better to go to the comfort rooms during the stops as all is still and take note that the airconditioning’s temperature is really, really low.

The cruise ship Super Star Virgo that travels from Singapore and major ports of call within Southeast Asia

Beauty pageant at the lobby

Airphil Express and Star Cruises invited us bloggers for a familiarization cruise tour from Singapore to Malaysia aboard the latter’s Super Star Virgo, a full service cruise ship. It was a lot different experience, another different way of traveling. And it was good.

But think of cruising as something out of the ordinary. It’s not just another passenger ship going to a destination. It is a full service, mall of the seas, so to speak, considering the many amenities and things to do and enjoy while taking it slow to your destination.

Main lobby of Super Star Virgo

Theater for nightly entertainment. CLICK TO ENLARGE

There were several families with children in tow, teenagers and honeymooners. There were even nubile sirens, coming in full force, candidates of Ms. Resorts World Manila who sashayed at the main lobby in their swimsuits to the gawking of tourists.

On board library with books covering a broad topic. However, its still advisable to bring your own tome.

Gym at the 12th floor

Live bands enliven the night too with music at the lounge bars either at the lobby or at the poolside for that al fresco entertainment.

Barbecue buffet at the poolside

Different levels with the upper rooms with balcony. CLICK TO ENLARGE

There’s also fine dining and barbecue night at the poolside, weather permitting. Second, majority of the cruise ship’s crew are kababayans. Everywhere you turn, there’s always a Pinoy crew member. So its not difficult to go or ask around.

Cramped accommodation for four

Sleeping is not a problem but depending on your type of accommodation and the number of persons in a cabin, some can sleep soundly while others, it can be a not so comfy night. In our case, there were four of us bloggers in the room. Two got the regular beds, one got the storable upper deck and, unfortunately for me, got the sofa bed that extends across the room. For one with a big frame, the sofa bed wasn’t too comfy for me and tend to squeek whenever I turn around.

Lounging at the topmost level

But one good thing about cruising is that, after you’ve done the rounds, eaten your way through the restaurants and had fun at the entertainment outlets, you can just go up at the top level or outside the 7th level decks, recline at one of the lounge chairs and just see the world go by.

This trip was made possible by AirPhil Express. Like their Facebook page to keep updated of promos and cheap fares. Check AirPhil Express’s Fly and Sail package tour.

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Emergency remedy while the 'katig' is being tied when two of the three ties snapped while crossing the turbulent Babuyan Channel

Calayan Is. in red

I was on a writing and photography assignment in Calayan Island in the Babuyanes and in between, I got to enjoy this piece of paradise this part of the Philippines.

Four hours and thirty minutes earlier, four of us were saying our goodbyes to friends at the beach of Calayan Island while boarding the small lampitaw (motorized pump boat). The morning was sunny and the sea was calmer than expected but not as calm as when we traveled to this island a few days before. But it rained the previous night and the sunset was quite red. According to our weatherman from PAGASA, change is on the onset.

Making it to shore

It was already an hour from the beachline when the waves started to become bigger than what we experienced before. With the news of a low pressure area in the lower part of the country, we were expecting a rough ride to Claveria. Approaching Dalupiri and then later, Fuga Island, the waves were much bigger that we’ve been soaked wet from the sprays but something that’s still manageable.

It was only past Fuga, where it is already open sea that the waters in the Babuyan Channel got more turbulent with waves bigger than the previous hours. Looking ahead of us, it gets scary at times as one can really sea the formation of waves that then hits the lampitaw. Many times, we have to ride the crest of the waves as we have to charge head on as these were going against us.

When we were already around three kilometers from Claveria, suddenly, one of the three nylon ties of the right katig, outrigger, snapped. At first we didn’t bother with it much, and I just looked at it from time to time but due to the turbulent seas and rough movement of the lampitaw, the middle tie snapped. This time, we were alarmed. While the vessel continued to go against the big waves, the thought of losing the outrigger fully and capsize the boat was just too scary that we shouted at the pilot to tie it.

He stopped his engine while we were still beset with waves. He was unusually calm while directing us to stay at the left side. He then commanded his companion to get the rope and tie the two points together. One of my companions was already holding a styro box while frantically calling someone through his mobile and telling what happened to us. Because, unfortunately, and I don’t know why it never dawned on us, there were no life jackets available. That made it more nerve wracking.

I was silent. I was intently looking at the ties, at the waves and at my companions. And I was also thinking:

I’ve been through this before, on a smaller boat in Homonhon where the waves from the Pacific Ocean were much bigger. I should not be afraid.

After a few minutes, the right outrigger was tied to the three points again and we were quite relieved. The boat’s motor roared and off we charged through the waves until we arrived safe and sound a hundred meters from the mouth of the Kabicungan River.

Later, I learned why the boat’s pilot was calm. He had a more deadly experience: his boat capsized and was floating for five days with two other fishermen in the Babuyan Channel only to be fished off in the waters in Taiwan.

Piglet aboard the motorized pumpboat for the next nine hours

Calayan Is. in red

So this is how it feels to be slowly roasted. I said to myself as the heat of the sun was slowly beating down on my exposed skin, biting, scorching, as our rented pumpboat, locally called lampitaw in Ilocano almost arrived, after nine hours at sea.

I was on assignment in Calayan Island in the Babuyanes and in between, I got to enjoy this piece of paradise this part of the Philippines. Nine hours, four hours more than the usual pumpboat trip thanx to a defective engine that saw us cruising at around 10 KM/HR on a fine sunny day, a calm sea and just great weather. It’s no fun. It’s no joke and it was just freakin’ exasperating. Not even my excitement of finally coming to these fabled group of islands in the Babuyanes can make me smile anymore. I was just so bored and helpless. We all were.

Our rented motorized pumpboat that took us from Claveria to Calayan Island.

The passengers. CLICK TO ENLARGE

I wasn’t really prepared for the type of vessel that we have to ride on. It was more for small cargo for small islands and not for people. Passengers are there only as an afterthought. Only did I realize when we were already at the vessel and started to sail, after waiting two hours for the high tide, that I was left out in the open as we made our way out of the mouth of the Kabikungan River, to be roasted slowly.

The trapal, heavy canvass, that acted as the roofing was too small for all of us and I offered the seat, only good for four to the ladies and the PAGASA weatherman. Bummer. I left my patadyong, a smaller sarong, in my backpack which was loaded at the bottom. Unreachable. I was wearing my TNF100 singlet, a cap and shorts and left nothing to rely on but what I already have. No sunscreen and no recourse but to enjoy the view.

Darn picturesque, stunning, perfect view of the blue sky, the deep blue sea and pieces of terra firma (but not terra incognita) as our vessel passed, cruising slowly. For a few minutes, I was entertained and regaled with stories and at other times, fell sleepy and fighting drowsiness lest I fall unceremoniously into the waters and my dignity with it.

Three hours before we arrived, the boat's captain decided to remove the canvass, further exposing us to the sun

Nearing shore. CLICK TO ENLARGE

And just as we already passed between the three islands that form the Fuga group, the boat’s pilot decided to remove the tarp that covered some of us and further exposing us to the sun.

Its almost eight hours into the journey. Dalupiri Island was behind us and the sight of Calayan from the distance is causing us excitement as the prospect of reaching our destination was just overwhelming. But unfortunately, the vessel just chugged slowly.

By this time, my back is aching. No hard surface to lean on during the entire trip, unless I lie, sprawled over bottles of Pop Cola. So close yet so far.

Finally, terra firma, Calayan Island

This is my arm exactly a week after the trip to Calayan. Dark area attributed to sun exposure. CLICK TO ENLARGE

Almost there and my exposed skin was already reddening. If I were the pig and basted with oil from time to time during the journey, I would have become lechon with all the crispiness of its skin. But I wasn’t. Instead, a warm sensation has been bugging me from time to time and the burnt part was becoming sore.

Land was coming closer and closer. The steeply inclined coastline strewn with pieces of polished shells and corals was coming into view and the vessel’s crew was already guiding it safely until, alas, we docked and we all heaved a sigh of relief.

Mt. Mayon from the plane's window

I really never tire of Mt. Mayon. I’ve seen her with her lava flows, or from the beautiful vantage point at the Embarcadero. Heck, I even consider Legazpi City airport as the airport with the best view in the world because of her! Years ago, while enroute to Cebu from Manila, the lady from afar is just beautiful. But never have I gone this close!

During a flight from Albay back to Manila, I was just fortunate enough that the morning was beautiful and thus, leaving Mt. Mayon exposed. As the plane passed closer and closer, I was just so enthralled of seeing it up close in the air, its trail of smoke billowing from its maw. Unfortunately, it was backlit as the sun was at the opposite side but still good enough to cast a dramatic image as well as show its gulleys.

Beautiful Mt. Mayon always intrigues!

Sikad, padyak, pedicab, lots of names but the ones in San Carlos City are beautiful

Resting in the afternoon. CLICK TO ENLARGE

I’ve always been fascinated with these three wheeled vehicles plying the roads of cities and towns in the Philippines. Either motorized or manually driven, it comes in different forms and designs and are unique to the places they ply. I like riding in these pedicabs, in many parts of Visayas and Mindanao, these are called sikad or padyak, meaning to push with the feet. Manually powered vehicles that’s just great to ride on because of the unhurried nature and non polluting. But the ones in San Carlos City, like in Ozamiz, Leyte, Samar and Biliran (the last three provinces have smaller bikes), have almost the same designs.

The bicycles are old fashioned and large, prompting the driver to be elevated, and how bicycles should be. While in Biliran they have foot brakes, here, its the usual handbrake system connected to the handle bars. A simple vehicle that is a joy to ride around the place.

Swan boat rides in Baguio's Burnham Park's murky lagoon

There will be no looking forward to swan boat rides in Baguio. No more eating red and plump and sweet strawberries in season or enjoying each other’s company even if it rains there. Not even walks through Session Road where we used to look at the wares being sold on the streets at night. Or dining in one of the cafes there. Not anymore.

There’s no going back to that city of memories with you, I guess. Its the end of the road for both of us. Seven years. Seven long years of tears and laughter, of being together. Seven long years of dealing with our own shortcomings and idiosyncracies and faults and forgiveness. Of love.

The Baguio of memories is coming to an end. But it was a beautiful journey with you. Thank you. You’ve enriched my life.

Early in the morning, the view at Legazpi City airport in Albay is just breathtaking

Early morning's flight. CLICK TO ENLARGE

Morning flights are the best as the sun is still near the horizon, the light is just perfect and the clouds haven’t come in to wrap and shroud the moody lady. If the weather’s good, especially this summertime, and you always get picture perfect shots with blue skies. Really just spectacular!

The wild sea at the Babuyan Channel while we were in transit to Palaui Island, Sta. Ana, Cagayan

En route back to Sta. Ana

The island was rugged, mountainous and well covered by vegetation and forests. The sea rough and a bit scary as the waves were huge but the motorized banca was skillfully handled by the experienced boatman. Even with the occasional sea sprays, we were treated to one of the stunning vistas in the country as we were heading to Palaui Island.

I’m on the road again, this time, in the north of Luzon for the second leg of Lakbay Norte 2, the yearly media familiarization tour around the region. Last year was a bit hectic but this time, its more relaxed as we are only covering Cagayan and the Ilocos provinces.

New places to go to and old ones too but I was really looking forward to that trip in Palaui which we did yesterday. The weather though was not cooperating with occasional drizzles but that boat trip in rough seas was really adventuresome.

What’s good about this sojourn though is that it will be another long bus ride, just my kind of trip. No need finding car repair for broken down vehicles. It also lets me think normally, great food, hospitable people and access to not so easy to go to places.

Lakbay Norte 2 posts will go live in the next few weeks.