Speak of Cebu and images of the Sto. Nino, the province’s patron, comes to mind. And so does the valiant Lapu-Lapu, sweet mangoes, the famous lechon, guitars and beaches. But it is more than that. Cebu is a special and beautiful place. It is also my home.

This is also the fourth and last Christmas feature for 2008. The previous three are Bibingka, puto bumbong and simbang gabi, Bright and colorful parols lighting the holidays and Divisoria Christmas shopping rush.

A "sawa" or boa so called because of its length. This monster is around 80 meters long consisting of thousands of smaller firecrackers and costs around P2,500.

Cordova in Mactan Island is not only a good vantage point for scenic views of Cebu City but, foremost of all, it is the acknowledged pabuto or firecracker center of the province. The firecracker industry here has been running for around three decades already and every December, small scale makers start this seasonal endeavor. 

The main manufacturing site is located in Barangay Babag 2 where makeshift shelters with plastic roofing are put up in open spaces behind houses along the road. Workers are mostly from this place but some are either contracted or come to work from other areas. It can be tedious and routinary with a different person doing a specific task. Their finished products are then sold to different vendors who sell these firecrackers along the highway in this municipality or across the rest of the province. Work ends on the last day of the year.

Check out the multimedia slideshow above consisting of 22 images with voice over.

Soak into this rich multimedia slideshow to have a better feel of what’s it like to be in Divisoria! 40 images, a short commentary, ambient sounds and a Christmas carol all in one interesting package.

This is the third Christmas feature for 2008. The other three are Bibingka, puto bumbong and simbang gabi, Bright and colorful parols lighting the holidays and Cordova pabuto.

During the holiday season, it’s not only about the Christmas spirit, parols and misa de gallo or simbang gabi, most of all, unfortunately, it’s about shopping. The best place to go for cheap and affordable goods is no other than Divisoria in Manila. Think of this as one giant marketplace for such goods like original or bootleg, local and imported items from food, clothes to decors and other bric-a-brac that overwhelms in terms of variety. “prepare to haggle and wade through the throng…” All at almost rock bottom prices. Shops and stalls can be found inside the malls like the popular 168, sidestreets, and just every space available overtaken by vendors and shoppers alike.

A fun wig vendor at one of the stalls along the road in Divisoria, Manila

On the weekends before Christmas week,  prepare to haggle and wade through the throng as the path gets narrower and narrower with people walking shoulder to shoulder amidst the cacophony of blaring disco music, microphone handling barkers and the probing questions of bargain hunters, all hoping to make a profit or buy that present for the holidays.

Note: The above slideshow originally appeared in my portfolio blog, my initial attempts of making a multimedia slideshow.

The nativity scene at the center of a parol fittingly drives home the reason for the season along a parol stall at a Makati highway.

This is the third Christmas feature for 2008. The other three are Bibingka, puto bumbong and simbang gabi, Divisoria Christmas shopping rush and Cordova pabuto.

You will know that Christmas is fast approaching when at the start of the “-ber” months carols are already played and the season’s decors are already on sale. Along the highways in major cities in the country especially in Metro Manila, enterprising individuals are turning dark corners and unused portions into bright places as they set up their makeshift stalls selling these dazzling Pinoy symbols: the parol or Christmas lantern.

It’s just mesmerizing as the play of brilliant colors and lights formed into elaborate stars, blooms and bouquets seem to dance around each lantern. Personally, I can’t help but look back on childhood memories as I got drawn into the then simple parol in fascination.

A man deftly makes his parol with capiz shells, paint and cheap Chinese made electric lights on a bamboo frame.

What used to be lanterns made from gossamer and pastel colored papel de hapon has gradually transformed into those made from metallic multicolored foils. Current versions are now electric powered decors. Of course those made from the two previously mentioned materials are still around but the latter is most prevalent along the makeshift stalls.

5 pointed small stars ring around larger multipointed ones that shines and lights and dances.

Translucent capiz shells seems to be the favored material in these kind of lanterns but in larger forms, plastic is used due to the limited size of these shells. Sizes can vary from a foot in diameter to several feet across. Of course, prices range from a thousand to tens of thousands depending on the size and complexity of the design.

An icon of the Santo Nino is flanked by parols. This seems to be a very common feature in many stores.

What amazes me with these lanterns is the complexity of the designs. From simple five pointed stars inside a ring to multipointed ones that are surrounded by smaller stars or circles painted in different hues. Nativity scenes are rather common and floral motifs might sometimes be found.

Different choices of voltages? The customer has to choose :-)

Other designs are whimsical plays in geometry with various shapes forms that it will be difficult to choose. Craftsmanship is also good but it pays to check the construction and tidiness of how the electric wires are put into place.

With all set up and ready for sale, its all a waiting game for customers.

The parol is testament to the Filipino’s creativity and ingenious use of available materials to come up with these dazzling works. If your budget allows it, get these to hang outside of your house and spread the season’s spirit.

The historic Guadalupe Church in Makati is packed full with people spilling outside for the traditional Simbang Gabi

This is the first Christmas feature for 2008. The other three are Bright and colorful parols lighting the holidays, Divisoria Christmas shopping rush and Cordova pabuto.

16 December is the start of the nine day dawn novena masses in anticipation of Christmas Day. In the Visayas and Mindanao, it is called the misa de gallo, or the “at the cock’s crow mass” and in the Tagalog region, Simbang Gabi. In Catholic churches across the country, parishioners are overflowing out of the portals as the faithful religiously follow this well cherished tradition.

The historic Guadalupe Church in Makati City used to be the convent of the Augustinians but after World War II, it was burned and in ruins. Rebuilt in it’s present state, it is just a short ride from where I’m residing and provides a beautiful backdrop for the Simbang Gabi.

Preparing the bibingka just outside the church

Speak of Simbang Gabi and one thing comes to mind: FOOD of which the bibingka (rice cake) and puto bumbong are two popular fares associated with this religious activity, or with Christmas, even if its now available all year round. These are usually found just outside the church gates and after mass, people stop to buy. However, while these two are true for those living in Metro Manila and probably in the Tagalog region, it is not traditional in my home province of Cebu.

A bibingka being cooked and ready for selling as the top has turned golden brown

Both are made from ground rice flour while the puto bumbong is made from sticky rice or malagkit, just like most rice cakes. Unlike the one that I’m familiar in my hometown, the bibingka is not steamed but cooked over and under hot coals. Strips of salted egg, cheese and in some cases, pieces of ham are placed into the mixture and as it gets to cook for a few minutes and the top starts to get firm, a layer of brown sugar is added. Once cooked, a spoonful of margarine and freshly grated coconut meat on top completes the bibingka.

To get that very fluffy and soft bibingka, 100% rice flour should be used coupled with optimal cooking time. Some blend ordinary flour into it and that will give you a harder rice cake.

Puto bumbong steamer at the gates of the church

The first time I tasted puto bumbong was way back in college in Mandaluyong. It was more out of curiousity that I tried it and got fascinated with the strange contraption that is used in cooking. At the heart is the steamer, placed over hot coals on a clay stove. Two or three openings at the top serve as receptacles for the bamboo tube that holds the colored rice flour mixture. A piece of cloth is then wrapped around that protects the hand’s surface when it is handled.

A wisp of vapor coming out from the traditional puto bumbong steamer

I’m not really sure why the puto bumbong is colored violet but it’s always colored that way. After a few minutes in the steamer, the bamboo tube is retrieved, the contents, now expanded and sticky, is set on a piece of banana leaf. Margarine is then rubbed, sugar added and freshly grated white coconut meat is placed on top before the leaf is folded and packed.

These two local fares are best eaten while still hot. The fluffy, soft and semi-sweet taste of the bibingka coupled with the sugary crunch layer contrasts well with the salted duck’s egg and cheese while the grated coconut provide a textural surprise. The puto bumbong’s almost bland taste, on the other hand, carries well the sugar, margarine and grated coconut meat.

A stunning view of Cebu at dusk as the city makes an urban backdrop and images of the simple and carefree life is in the foreground. A surreal scene.

Mangroves separates the sea and sky as the reflection of the moon makes a bright streak in the water

Speak of Cebu and images of the Sto. Nino, the province’s patron, comes to mind. And so does the valiant Lapu-Lapu, sweet mangoes, the famous lechon, guitars and beaches. But it is more than that. Cebu is a special and beautiful place. It is also my home.

Cebu’s twin bridges provide a spectacular view of the city whether it’s dawn, day or night. However, if you want the solitude, the quite murmurings of the waves as a banca paddles near or have dinner with a special someone, without losing the bright city lights, then the tongue of road jutting out less than a kilometer into the sea, terminating at a seaside restaurant in the municipality of Cordova, at the southern tip of Mactan Island is a must.

It’s out of the way, takes almost an hour from the city to reach and the roads can be confusing that it’s easy to miss this place.

A wooden footpath seem to go on forever to the sea but is actually just a few meters from the road where one can go up and down to a waiting banca

Photo enthusiasts sometimes gather here as it provides a spectacular scenery as the sun sets over the hills of Cebu. Have a wide angle lens and you can capture the breadth and span of mangroves, still waters and the island province at a distance while the skies are tinged with red and orange and pink and purple as the day is ending.

The view of the sea and southern Cebu at dusk

Change to a telephoto lens to compress the view and you’ve got a surrealistic scene of boys swimming in the shallow waters faintly illumined with the dying light, a couple of fishermen manoeuvring their bancas as the urban structures of buildings, towers, steel and cement form a backdrop (top photo).

Lights cast an orange hue as the city begins to prepare for the night. A thousand bulbs and lamps illuminates, giving off a radiance that is just dazzling to the eyes.

However, it is easy to miss the sunset if you procrastinate in going as you might be tied up in traffic in Mandaue City. But if you do come late, just sit back and wait as the city awakens. Slowly, lights go on, creeping at both directions sideways at the horizon until it has stretched almost from one end to the other with the brightest concentrated a little past the center to the right.

Stars shine as night finally settles in the city.

As the night deepens and the sky is clear, stars shine out. Its one spectacular scene. There’s no pollution or smog to blot out the skyline and mar the view. Depending on the time of year, it is easy to see Orion flee into the horizon upon sighting Scorpio rising. Or the familiar Big Dipper in constellation Ursa Major circling Polaris, the northern star in Ursa Minor. Reflections on the waters ripple and dance and you just stare into the distance, entranced and wide eyed.

Surely, its a view that you can never forget.

The Fernan Bridge is spectacular at night as it is bathed in beautiful light, a fitting backdrop for lovers taking in the citylights.

Speak of Cebu and images of the Sto. Nino, the province’s patron, comes to mind. And so does the valiant Lapu-Lapu, sweet mangoes, the famous lechon, guitars and beaches. But it is more than that. Cebu is a special and beautiful place. It is also my home.

To any visitor either of the two bridges connecting the small and flat Mactan Is. with the main island of Cebu, provides a breathtaking look of the metropolis from an elevated position and thus a bird’s eye view of this booming and beautiful city in the south. The structures might not be as extensive and as tall as in Metro Manila, but this province can well hold its own.

Beautiful soft light early in the morning at the old bridge.

A fisherman showing scale as he is dwarfed by the massive Fernan Bridge just a few minutes after sunrise as a passenger ship is coming from the distance.

Mactan is where the export processing zone, the international airport and many world class resorts are located, and is the main gateway to this island province. Cebu on the other hand is where the food bowl is, the seat of political power and commerce and where the bulk of current infrastructure developments are in full swing.

These two important hubs are connected by the Old Cebu-Mactan Bridge and the newer one, Marcelo Fernan Bridge, named after the late senator and son of the province, are the vital links that connects these important hubs together.

The old bridge has been there since 1972. Prior to its building, a ferry used to ply the short channel. During the Marcos years, vehicles crossing used to pay toll but was abolished, I think, during the Cory years. I remember as a child passing below it’s steel trusses at the center was the highlight of any crossing.

For any old timer of Cebu, two things come to mind on this old structure: a) it was where Filipino action star Dante Varona was said to have jumped in one of his movies, and b) during the 80s, at the height of a typhoon, the aptly named Korean sea vessel Sangko Elegance’s (sangko in Cebuano means to hit the upper part or roof because of an object’s or person’s height) tall mast hit the bridge.

View of the Waterfront Hotel from the old bridge. Early morning mist hasn't yet fully lifted as the sun just woke from it's slumber.

Photo enthusiasts are often seen just before sunrise or evenings capturing those timeless moment.

The Fernan Bridge was built in 1999 and Cebuanos heaved a sigh of relief once it became operational as it greatly decongested the old structure. Just imagine the two hubs powering the provincial economy connected by an aging bridge that is no longer as relevant as before because of its narrow lanes.

The newer one is multilane and an architecturally beautiful suspension bridge. Its massive and imposing but at the same time, graceful and elegant and hasn’t been rivaled anywhere else in the country.

A rare view from the top offers scenes like this passenger ferry as it passes under the old bridge.

The bridges are not only for vehicles. The two are beautiful and accessible tourist spots that are only frequented by the locals. These are places that afford one to have a stunning and closer view of both sides of the channel, a perfect alternative to the often out of the way and inconvenient Tops at the hinterlands of Cebu. Here, you just hop on a taxi or jeepney to reach the bridges than taking a private car, 4×4 recommended, in order to reach the latter and pay a high entrance fee. Here, it’s free.

The rocks at the base of Fernan Bridge offers locals perfect seats to enjoy the citylights.

The best times to be in these areas are early in the morning, just before sunrise and during evenings. The old bridge provides a stunning sunrise scene as the sun awakens from it’s slumber and slowly climbing from the horizon with the Fernan Bridge providing a perfect backdrop with coming passenger ships from the different provinces. As the sun starts to shine more and more, turn 180 degrees and see the city’s mist and fog starting to lift. Alternatively, the viewing deck high at the Fernan Bridge unfurls visual surprises but you have to leave your vehicle below.

Love and romance find expressed in one of the massive pillars of the Fernan Bridge where the viewing deck is. During nights, it becomes a rendezvous point for lovers whispering sweet nothings and promises of eternal love.

As evening comes, head on below the Fernan Bridge. The base at the Mactan Island side is more accessible and developed into a park that visitors come here to just enjoy the spectacular city lights. It’s clean and the sight of massive pillars is just breathtaking. It’s also a popular venue for many local photo enthusiasts who converge here as well as staging area for many nuptial portraits with the well lighted bridges and city as their backdrop.

The big cross or "dako nga krus" at the center of the Talisay Cemetery is aglow with fire from candles as cemetery visitors light and pray.

All Soul’s Day, undas in Filipino and kalag-kalag in Cebuano is at hand and what better way to be in the mood than a four-part series about cemeteries and the age old practice of Filipinos to honor their dead. Part 1 Part 2 Part3 Part 4.

My niece Enicka is set for the cemetery where family and relatives will gather.

All Soul’s Day is anticipated on 1 November. While many already visit their dead during the day, it is during the night that this traditional event gets spectacular as the light of a thousand candles and bulbs make cemeteries luminous and dazzling. Add the multitude of people and it becomes a truly memorable event.

A candle is lighted near the door of houses in Talisay City.

As twilight signals the end of day and start of night, my family is all set for the cemetery to spend a few hours there. At the back of the multicab (left), several bouquets intended for the different tombs were already assembled; a rolled mat that will be placed on top of the tomb; several food containers for bam-i, a Cebuano dry noodle dish, empanada, suman (steamed sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves), slices of bread and several bottles of water. Paper plates, disposable spoon, fork and plastic cups as well as a cooler for liters of Coke, complete the set.

Before we leave for the cemetery, a candle is then lighted at the doorstep or at the entrance of the house. Cebuanos believe that during this night, departed family members visit us and these candles light the way for them. As one travels to the cemetery, this is a common sight in many houses.

A busy path where the living and dead crowd.

A boy playing at the "dako nga krus"

Its chaotic. People are streaming in and out of a narrow road leading to the cemetery. Several vendors lining the sides add to the congestion as they are hawking their food ranging from steaming and fluffy white and violet bibingka, lechon (roast pig), several viands and puso (”hanging” rice).

There are rows of flowers placed inside cans or glass containers as well as different forms, colors and sizes of candles at one side and at the other, ukay ukay (used clothes), halloween related trinkets, fastfood and Chinese made toys. Its humid and hot and as one navigates through the maze of bodies, one can get wet with perspiration.

As one nears the mouth of the cemetery, the crowd gets denser and its hard to move except for a few small steps. People are shoulder to shoulder and there’s no angry outbursts except for a few calls to stop pushing and shoving.

Niche and tomb at the cemetery

Once one get’s past the cemetery entrance, a wonderful sight unfolds. Whitewashed tombs and crypts decorated with flowers are aglow with the pale golden light of candles. Hundreds of people are moving around that they all become a blur of streaming lines. Tall bamboo poles rise from the ground with lighted incandescent bulbs dangling midway and its top end electric cables connect from one pole to another.

Whiling away time at the cemetery by playing rounds of card games.

Raised tombs become temporary tables for food, a round of card games or as seats where jokes are told or songs belted out. However small the space, families crowd and just gossip or talk unmindful of the passersby.

A lady with her dead fenced from the outside. It's her small private space where time is whiled away with SMS.

Check the slideshow at Pinoycentric.com

All around is a cacophony of voices, laughter, plucking of guitars and the occasional karaoke. The air reeks of burnt candles and taste the cool and salty breeze from the sea which is just beside the cemetery.

It is a magical, memorable and a luminous night at the Talisay City cemetery.

Day time at the Calamba Cemetery and people are already streaming in that it can become chaotic and lively. Here, visitors offer prayers, candles and flowers to their departed.

All Soul’s Day, undas in Filipino and kalag-kalag in Cebuano is at hand and what better way to be in the mood than a four-part series about cemeteries and the age old practice of Filipinos to honor their dead. Part 1 Part 2 Part3 Part 4.

While some are making last minute travel back to their home province (or probably vacationing at the beach), the first day of November sees cemeteries across the country already abuzz with visitors. In Cebu City, the Calamba Cemetery is one of the biggest in the province and also an opportunity to soak in this time honored tradition.

At the entrance, ambulant vendors are already calling out customers to buy their wares of overpriced candles, flowers, bottles of mineral water or, if you have your own car, bugging you to take their parking space before another will get it. These can be convenient, however for some especially those who haven’t been to the flower markets.

Candles and bouquets greet the cemetery visitor at the entrance. These are sold by enterprising vendors that make it convenient for the people who doesn't have time to go to the flower market.

"Palina Boys" of Calamba Cemetery collects P1 for every pass.

More vendors, this time stalls, line at the sides of the colonial era entrance arch with its creepy skull and crossbones medallion relief overhead. People are now streaming in in big numbers, and as the day progress, it can be a very humid and chaotic beeline at both directions. Once inside, you get to glimpse the Spanish colonial period cemetery chapel built in 1863 with its stylized relief of a crowned skeleton holding a staff and an hourglass.

As you pass the narrow path straight, your eyes start to sting as smoke intentionally lit by boys fill the air. These are done by what I call the palina boys, enterprising youths who collect a peso for each individual who pass above these. In Cebuano cemetery tradition, passing over smoke as one goes out of the cemetery ensures that the spirits would not follow you to your homes where they might bring sickness or even death to a loved one. In 2006, cemetery administrators banned this practice inside.

A man does some finishing touches to spruce up a niche in preparation for visitors who will be visiting the grave.

As one wanders around the cemetery, one can’t help but notice last minute retouches done on the tombs and niches. Men on ladders are busy sprucing up the upper levels, putting on a fresh coat of paint or installing a temporary electric bulb connection for the night. Below, families or individuals are silently mumbling their prayers, lighting candles and offering flowers and at the same time, admonishing teenage boys against stealing still lighted candles left by the visitor that they will gather for its wax.

Food offerings for the dead: fruits, rice, viand and a bottle of water are carefully placed infront of a niche.

One find that amazed me was this family who offered food and water to their departed. It’s already rare for this kind of thing to be seen and here it is, at one part of the cemetery. This is a traditional practice of honoring the dead and are more common in the rural areas. One requirement for this is that the food should be cooked unsalted. In some instances, a ritual offering of betel nut and areca with lime, duhat rolled leaves and strips of tobacco are put on a platter for the spirit to “taste”.

At a designated spot, people gather to light candles, offer flowers and prayers for dead family and friends instead of lighting and giving each and everyone. A more economical solution.

Check the slideshow at Pinoycentric.com

At one central part in Calamba Cemetry is a huge cross where visitors can offer their prayers, flowers and candles. Really, it’s more economical and convenient for them than to visit the maze of niches, tombs and plots that, over time, they have forgotten where their dead friends or distant kin have been entombed.